![]() 10/27/2020 at 18:15 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Image: Rusty’s Potato Cam
https://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/off-road_tires/billy_bonkers
I ordered a pair of these guys. I don’t know if I’ll be receiving the gum wall version or the solid black. Gumwall, I hope... 26x2.1
So if you look at the first picture, yes, that’s a spoke pulling through the rim of my rear* bicycle wheel. That situation is repeated at about every other spoke. I think this is suboptimal.
* Because lardass...
My bicycle I only ride on the street, 10-15 miles, four times per week, plus or minus, at around 5 AM when I can pretty much own the street. I think of my bicycle as somewhat analogous to a ‘95 Impala 9C1 more than, say, a CTS-V or a Corvette.
I love riding my bicycle. I dress up like a reflective Christmas tree and light lots of lights and turn my Bluetooth speaker on and I look dorky as hell and it’s a beautiful thing.
Anyhow...
I have a set of 26-inch rims with knobbies that have gone literally about one mile when I instantaneously discovered that non-street riding was NOT my thing. So my friend, a bicycle guru, suggested I look at some two-inch street tires and run the 26-inch rims and this would be better suited to my urbanic riding anyhow. This sounds sensible to me. I guess I’ll pay some speed penalty with a shorter tire diameter and some more rolling resistance, but the 700c-rimmed tires only barely clear the top of the fork, so I’ll benefit there as well.
What you you think? What’s a good 26-inch road tire? Extra internet points for fashionable road tire that also rolls well.
Thank you in advance.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 16:28 |
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You should run the size that your frame was designed for. If that’s an old CAAD mountain bike, it’s for 26" wheels. you should toss the old wheelset ASAP, don’t ride it even for a second.
as for 26" tires, check out the Conti town and country, the surly extraterrestrial, or the continental contact II.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 16:31 |
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Even on a 26" wheel I’d go for some volume for a better ride. I’m not fond of narrow tires on a 26" wheel especially since it looks like you are good at destroying wheels.
Something like this?
or
![]() 10/27/2020 at 16:34 |
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I think you can get Thickslicks in 26"? I ride a WTB 650bx47 tire and the big size is awesome. Also, everything I have read says there is no speed penalty for wider tires.
You may be able to fit 650b wheels on your frame which would open up a little more options for you.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 16:43 |
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I would probably do something more along the lines of putting together a stronger 700c or 27.5 wheelset, if only because there would be so many more tire choices is modern sizes. If you like the hubs on that knobby wheelset, a good LBS could easily enough lace you up a new wheelset using some new rims and spokes to your old hubs/hubs of your choice.
However, I’m sure putting some road rubber will work well enough if you’re not worried about going fast and you think those rims are strong enough for the weight and application.
I put the cheapie Kenda tires above on the old 90's Specialized Rockhopper I put together for my sister. They’re fine, but nothing more than just fine for a bike that does nothing more than occasional short rides around the neighborhood . Riding 26" feels like riding a kids bike compared to even the 27.5x2.1 ” gravel wheelset for my Salsa, much less the 700c and 29" + wheelsets and/or bikes. Make no mistake they’re cheap, heavy wirebead tires, but they may be just fine for what you’re looking for/trying out the setup to see how you like it . I don’t know how many higher-end tire options are still out there for 26" these days.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 16:43 |
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If a narrow 26" tyre will fit then go for it. Bear in mind though that going smaller may put your crankset (pedals) closer to the ground - no-one likes pedal strikes! Choices of tyre can either come from the BMX realm or the cargo/touring realm. The advantages of each style vary but the former may be easier so come by. Personally, I have used Schwalbe Marathon in 26x1.5 and found them effective as a street tyre. You could also got the the mullet option and just go 26" on the back...
![]() 10/27/2020 at 17:10 |
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It has tossed itself. I bought that bicycle used with the wheels that are on it. It had very skinny cross-section tires when I first got it and I've upsized twice.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 17:19 |
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I have nothing to add other than I absolutely love the description of your morning rides!
![]() 10/27/2020 at 17:43 |
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I’d look at either a Continental Contact or Gatorskin in 26". Depending on how much glass and other junk you have to worry about. The Gatorskin will have a faster rolling profile and rubber compound.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 17:59 |
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B ack when I was putting a lot of road miles in, I always ran conti gatorskins cause they are supposed to be very tough to puncture. Seems like it worked out pretty well? It’s hard to say if the low # of flats was the tires or just luck.
In any case, I wonder if
changing to a smaller wheel may make the steering feel different. I guess you’ll find out!
![]() 10/27/2020 at 18:09 |
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Yeah. I’m wary of that part. I’m afraid it will turn out that the 700s are what give the feel that I like. But I won’t know until I try.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 18:23 |
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“What you you think?”
I think you need to reduce the lard in the ass by going on a low-fat/low-salt version of the Keto diet where you do 3-4 parts veggies for every part of meat/protein.
My doctor told me it’s 80% diet and 20% exercise.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 18:25 |
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The schwables are pump track/bmx tires so they should be pretty tough and have good traction. I do like the old head shock cannondales. They really did a good job with those head shocks.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 18:42 |
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But what about Doritos?
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:02 |
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No Doritos allowed. Have some cabbage instead!
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:03 |
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I have these on my Dirt Jumper
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:26 |
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I think you are being overly harsh, I say we let Rusty have -one- D orito a week, either original or ranch. That’s one chip, not one bag, R usty!
(good on you for exercising, I manage about one week on for every three weeks off)
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:27 |
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I think Manwhich was being overly harsh, I say we let you have -one- Dorito a week, either original or ranch. That’s one chip, not one bag, Rusty!
(good on you for exercising, I manage about one week on for every three weeks off)
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:45 |
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I have used Kenda Kwest 26” x 1” tires on my road-going mountain bikes for years. I’ll buy them again when the current set wears out.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 19:45 |
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Nobody only has just one dorito...
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:13 |
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I’m thinking the rim is just worn out. Worked aluminum is brittle and gets worse with use. Swap that set of wheels to yer friend for a set that fits and go on about yer ride.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:17 |
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(He says as he poors the processed nacho cheese sauce over a salad bowl full of tortilla chips...)
Ask Ttyymmnn about Burno.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:45 |
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Yep.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:46 |
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I bought the fan boi Swabski tires.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:48 |
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I LOVE that bike. It's the only "real" bike I've ever owned and I've spent less money on cars than I've spent on that bike.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:58 |
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Fairly few, it seems. But the Schwalbes I ordered look like they're worth a try and the 26-inch wheel would have been the stock size when that bike was new.
![]() 10/27/2020 at 23:59 |
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Did you see the link to the Schwalbes I ordered? Quirky enough, they look...
![]() 10/28/2020 at 01:13 |
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Those look like a good tire.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 05:13 |
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Noticed that...they are BMX/dirt jump tyres, hence the tan walls and bonkers handle. Most of the Schwalbe off road range have had such names for many years...Rocket Ron, Nobby Nic and M agic Mary are old enough to have children!
![]() 10/28/2020 at 07:20 |
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When I was a bicycle courier, I ran specialized semi-slicks, and they were perfect city rollers. I think they were 1.95, so super narrow, with aggresive lugs just on the outside of the tread. And boy howdy did those tires last! I’ll be dammed if I’ve ever been able to find them again, as they only made them for about a year.
Oh, and I love the cruiser bars! Really makes that C-dale stand out.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 07:52 |
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I had a little more time to look at what you posted and consider your dilemma. Bikes have weight ratings, but they don’t talk about it much. The damage to the rims suggests that you are exceeding their maximum capacity. If you’re going to stick with t he 700c size, look into “touring” wheels. As the name suggests, they are made for increased loads. If you can’t find touring wheels, look for wheels with 36 spokes. That will better distribute the weight and reduce the force on individual spokes.
The beauty of your bike is that it was designed to accept both 700c and 26" wheels. As I suggested before, going with a set of slicks (1-2") will give you similar performance to a 700c wheel. They’ll also provide a smoother, more comfortable ride than any 700c wheel can. Since you already have the wheels, a couple of $20 tires is worth the try. ( https://www.westernbikeworks.com/product/kenda-k193-kwest-26-inch-tire )
I wonder how that shock is performing under your weight. Just like a car, shocks are designed for a specific weight range. Go beyond it and you’ll have problems. If you have the low-end fork, it will have urethane springs. Under excess weight, these will bottom out easily and deteriorate quickly. They do sell replacements with higher durometers for heavier use. If it’s the high-end air shock, make sure it has the proper pressure for your weight. They also recommend regular fluid and seal replacements.
Good luck!
![]() 10/28/2020 at 09:52 |
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I have a friend who is a designer by profession -- and a VERY serious cyclist -- and he recommended these. I like the stodginess of the look with the gum wall.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 09:52 |
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Well, at least they’ll have style so that when I’m out riding in the dark, nobody can see them.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 09:54 |
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Thanks. Isn’t that a beautiful handle bar? I bought it at a local bike shop where they just happened to have it around. I’ve been very happy with it.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 10:01 |
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Morning, Buck. Since I already have the 26-inch rims, I’ll try them with the Schwalbe tires. Deep down, I think I’d prefer to keep 700c. If I try the 26s and don’t like the ride or the steering, then I’ll look at upgrading the 700c wheels. There’s a schrade valve in the crotch of the fork, and the 700c tire wants to rub against the cap on that valve. The clearance is like a mill imeter. So the 26s would give me more clearance there. I’ve had that shock rebuilt twice by a guy in New York for whom that is his specialty. I’d say, based upon my limited cycling experience, that it’s a great shock but a little bit finicky.
The Bonker tires were recommended to me by a friend who is a designer by profession and a very avid cyclist. He’s also a Canondale enthusiast who owns a couple of Lefties. Leftys?
I just got back from my morning ride. Lots of debris in the bike lanes because of all the wind. I think I am well advised to use durable tires.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 11:29 |
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The schrader valve means that the shock is an air/oil shock. These tend to lose a bit of pressure over time. You might want to take a look at the manual to see the proper pressure for your weight and how to air it up again.
There are two things I don’t like about treaded tire designs for road use. First, the treads aren’t really necessary since it’s impossible for a bicycle tire to hydroplane and the treads get squirmy under load, compromising cornering and slowing you down on the straights. Second, the treads tend to pick up small rocks and throw them around. That’s something I find really annoying.
In all the years I’ve ridden on the Kendas, I’ve never had a flat. I’ve had plenty of them on my 700c tires. I like the 26" slicks so much that my primary commuter bikes always sported them. My “road” bike is a cyclocross frame which gives the extra room to run 700x35 tires with fenders. I find that they are an acceptable alternative, but if/when I go back to commuting by bike, I’ll do it on 26" slicks.
I can’t say enough about using fenders, especially on a commuter bike. They help keep the bike clean, help keep the rider clean, and make riding in inclement weather a lot more bearable. If you stick with 26" wheels, you’ll have plenty of space to add some fenders on your bike.
I seriously considered a Bad Boy when I was looking for a one-bike-does-all for both commuting and weekend rides. The ability to easily swap wheels to change function was highly appealing. I ended up with a Super-V instead since I found a great deal on a used one. I still bought two sets of wheels and kept one shod with knobbies, the other with slicks. I ended up buying multiple bikes once I had the space, but my primary commuter was always a mountain bike with slicks.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 14:19 |
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So these Schwalbes would get a veto, right? Because tread?
That’s all great input. Yes on the fenders. Difficult with 700s. I’ll probably custom fab a rear fender out of a ribbon of aluminum flashing. The cargo rack does a bit of fendering on its own.
I love the looks of the Bad Boy. I’m not sure how I wound up with one; somebody must have told me it was a good choice, because I know nothing, as Sergeant Schultz would have said.
I have the pump for servicing the headshock. I hung the bike by its wheels for a season and the oil started leaking out through the top of the shock. The guy who rebuilt it for me — two times now — said I should quit storing the bicycle that way.
What cross sectional diameter do you prefer on your 26-inch slicks?
![]() 10/28/2020 at 15:53 |
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I would veto the Schwalbes under your use case. I think t hey would be great for packed dirt and trails, but I wouldn’t want them on my bike for pavement.
I’ve been really happy with Planet Bike fenders on both my commuter MTB and on my cyclocross-framed road bike. Full coverage can’t be beat. I had a “stinger” style rear fender on my Super-V and it did nothing to keep the bike clean and dry.
The drivetrain and lower frame were guaranteed to get filthy if I rode through any puddles, which was common with all the people watering the street along with their lawns. It also didn’t protect my legs or feet. After riding the rain (had to when I was commuting), my white socks were usually grey or black from all the crud. Not fun. I hated it so much that when I built up a no-suspension MTB for commuting, I included full fenders AND a rack. After all, they serve different purposes.
Your shop mechanic is right - don’t hang the bike by the fork. It puts a side load on the suspension which, over time, crushes the seals and causes them to leak . They aren’t designed to be loaded that way.
I’ve used both 1" and 1.5" slicks on several bikes. They handled very differently, but that’s probably more to do with the cross-sectional shape than the overall size. The 1" tires were Kenda Kwest. Being smaller, they required a higher pressure. They were very round in cross-section, so there was very little resistance to leaning over while cornering. The first time I experienced it, it was a little disconcerting. It just sort of fell into corners.
I tried a set of Specialized Nimbus EX in 26x1.5. They have more of a mushroom cross section and are somewhat resistant to cornering. They sell these in an “Armadillo” version which has a reputation for being heavy, but also for being very puncture resistant. They’re also fairly expensive. I didn’t care for them, so they were demoted to trainer duty.
I eventually went back to Kenda Kwests, but in the 1.5" size. They had more of a mushroom cross section like the Nimbus and performed similarly, but they felt less resistant to cornering than the Nimbus. It was the right balance for my tastes . The last bike I had them on was smashed and I haven’t had the need for a new commuter bike since moving to Louisiana. So, they sit in the garage gathering dust.
I looked on the Kenda site and they don’t market the Kwest any more . I’m not sure if the supply that is out there is old stock or if they just use their website to cater to enthusiasts who are willing to pay more for a tire. Either way, I’ve always been happy with them.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 16:13 |
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So The Billy bonkers would be a double fail by your standards, they have tread and they're too wide.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 16:35 |
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I just looked and you’re right - a 2.1" tire would be too wide for my tastes for street duty. A wide tire like would feel fairly slow on the road, especially with all the knobs. All those grippy edges would deform on the road, increasing the rolling resistance.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 18:35 |
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May I task you with specifying a tire for me? Bearing in mind that my ass is very sensitive, but also, that if anybody who knew anything about bicycles were to look at my bicycle in the daylight, they wouldn’t say, Those are sure el cheapo tires . They might even say, Dude has discriminating taste. Gumwalls, even, maybe? And send me a link? (Don’t want much , do I?)
![]() 10/28/2020 at 18:44 |
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What’s your budget?
![]() 10/28/2020 at 18:59 |
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Let’s not constrain your efforts.
![]() 10/28/2020 at 21:31 |
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OK!
I’ll assume we’re talking about tires for the 26" wheelset. That will get you a wider tire that can run lower pressures making it more comfortable for your bum. I wouldn’t go bigger than a 2.0 width if you ever want to mount fenders. I don’t have a Bad Boy around to verify, so that would be a best guess.
I looked for a set of gumwalls, but could only find them on smaller width tires. If you’re the kind of guy that sticks to the pavement, a set of WTB ThickSlicks would be great. I know, everyone thinks slicks are fair weather tires, but bicycle slicks cut right through the water. If something makes them lose grip on pavement , the same thing will make tires with treads lose grip too.
If you still can’t get around the idea of slicks or if your riding takes you across the occasional path, patch of grass, or maybe sand, you can’t go wrong with a set of touring tires. Both of the next two choices have reflective sidewalls, extra flat protection, and inverted tread to get some grip in those slightly off-road situations. Both come highly recommended.
The first is the Continental Contact Plus . It’s slightly smaller at 26x1.75", trading some comfort for nimbleness. Their biggest competitor has to be the Schwalbe Marathon Plus . The Schwalbes come in a 26x2" size, so they can be ridden at a slightly lower pressure, making them a bit more comfortable when the road gets rough. Both of these tires are known for their outstanding longevity and flat protection. They are also known for being a bit chunky. They aren’t meant for winning races, so being a bit portly can be forgiven. Some complain of them feeling a bit dead - that’s because of the weight and the thicker tread which gives them the flat protection. As with all things, it’s a tradeoff.
I know you’re wondering which of these I’d choose. To be honest, I prefer a slightly smaller tire and I’m too cheap to spend that much on tires. My Kendas have served me well and I’ll probably buy another set when the time comes for new tires.
A final thought - many people swear by the comfort of a Brooks B-17 saddle. I have one myself and it’s a great saddle. Not the best I’ve ever had, but really close. They say that it gets better with the miles and that is true. If I were in your shoes , I’d lose the thudbuster and replace it with a standard post with a Brooks on top. Which one? The B-17 is their best seller, but I’d seriously consider a F lyer in black. The springs will do a better job than that Thudbuster.
What was my favorite saddle, you ask ? A Bon trager FS+10 with kevlar sides and non-slip embroidery on top exactly like this one:
It was ruined in a crash caused by a dog. I’d love to find another saddle just like it. Everything else I’ve tried isn’t as comfortable.
Anyway, good luck with your bike. It really is a nice one!
![]() 10/29/2020 at 00:04 |
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Hi Buck, I’m surprised that you recommended the Schwalbe in 2.0 and not 1.75.
What do you think of this tire ?
Continental has several interesting slickie choices.
![]() 10/29/2020 at 01:28 |
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Rusty, t he choice is a matter of the person’s goals. Since comfort is a primary goal for you , a wider tire is a better choice. A wider tire can be run at lower pressure, making for a much smoother ride. That has to be balanced with the largest tire that will fit in the frame while still allowing space for fenders. It’s a bit of a guess, but I did see a forum post suggesting a 2.0 width on 26” wheels would fit that frame and still have room for a fender. I’d have recommended a larger Continental had I seen one for sale.
The T&C has such wide tread spacing that it seems like it wouldn’t provide a smooth ride, although I admit I’ve never had a chance to ride on them.
Personally, I prefer a slightly smaller 1.5” tire with almost no tread. The smaller tire needs higher pressure to prevent pinch flats. My Kendas are happy at 60- 65psi. The 700x35s on my road bike are happy at 75-80psi. The 2.0 tire I suggested can be ridden at 50psi. That should be very comfy.
The idea of comfort is directly related to one of the biggest misconceptions in the cycling world. P eople like to talk about the “harshness” or the “vertical compliance” of a frame. There”s several orders of magnitude more compliance in the tires than in the frame. Changing the air pressure in the tires has a much greater effect on the comfort of the ride than anything else, especially when people talk about one frame material being “less harsh” than another. If you want to read a grumpy engineer/cyclist put people in their place, google Jobst Brandt and frame materials. You might even find a few conversations between he and I on the topic from the early ‘90s.
It’s because of Jobst that I take a different approach to cycling than I did in my younger days. I never have been nor ever will be a competitive cyclist, so there’s no point in making the bike super light and compromising strength and longevity. Every decision is a trade off. Low spoke counts in a wheel improve aerodynamics , but increase the stress within the wheel by requiring higher tensions in fewer spokes and can actually increase rotating mass since the rim has to be heavier to withstand the increased tension. The new 1x10 drivetrains may be slightly lighter, but the remaining mass is moved away from the center of the bike and the ideal chain line is compromised, increasing wear on both the gears and the chain.
I could go on, but I need to go to bed instead. Try out the wider tires. They will be more comfortable, but they will be a bit heavier. That should be balanced with an improved rolling resistance from the lack of tread. Given your goals, I think you’ll like them. But I could be wrong....
![]() 10/29/2020 at 09:30 |
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Good morning Buck. Thank you for taking the time to share all of this with me. What I think I’m going to do, based on the quality input that you’ve given me as well as the input from my other biking friend the designer, is actually try a couple of different kinds of tires on the 26-in rims, while I take my time shopping for a robust pair of touring 700c rims. If I find myself happy with one of the tires on the 26s, I’ll just stick with those. if I feel like I’ve given something up moving away from the 700 C’s, then I’ll keep shopping and maybe find a set of those wheels and put the gravel Kings back on. I think at this point, I’m going to have to take the best information that my friends are shared with me, and then try some things out myself and see what I like.
I appreciated the input about the saddle. I am finding my current saddle comfortably enough, so I’m going to hold off on monkeying with that and just concentrate on tires for the time being.
Thanks again.
![]() 10/29/2020 at 10:47 |
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Good morning!
I’m glad to lend a hand. Here are so me thoughts about rims. As I said before, touring rims are made to handle heavy loads. Look for hand-made rims with 32 or 36 spokes. Machine-made rims are decent , but would go the extra mile and hand-tension the spokes before using them. Historically, machines aren’t very good at evenly tensioning all of the spokes. If the tension is slightly less on one spoke, it will be the point of future failure.
I was pretty hard on rear wheels when I was mountain biking regularly. I finally had a shop hand-build a rear wheel with a shimano XT hub and a velocity Deep-V rim. It’s still solid over 20 years later. That’s a testament to a well-built wheel.
You’re going about all of this the right way. Solicit feedback, review the options, take it all with a grain of salt, and try out what you think is right for you.
Good luck and happy riding!
![]() 10/29/2020 at 10:55 |
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Do you adjust your own spoke tension? Someone told me years ago that tightening spokes is a master artisan craft.
![]() 10/29/2020 at 13:26 |
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It pays to know how to take care of minor tension issues. Yes, I make adjustments as needed. It’s not terribly difficult, but many people lack the patience to do it right. Everyone has to start somewhere. There are plenty of videos on how to do it. You should give it a shot!
![]() 10/29/2020 at 14:00 |
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I just might. Right now, though, I need to make sure the source for my morning fix is solid. I’ve got Conti Ride City 1.75 slickish tires inbound, as well as the Billy Bonkers. I’ll try the Conti first with an eye to wondering whether I’d like something a little wider. The Schwalbe Marathon Pro is available in 1.9, I think. The snob in me likes the elitist possibilities that Schwalbe suggests, but if I’m happy with the Conti, I’ll just mail back the Billy Bonkers unopened.
Of all that you and my designer friend have suggested, I am most sold upon the idea of slicks. The Gravel Kings on the 700 wheels are practically slicks.
![]() 10/29/2020 at 20:22 |
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I think this is the tire I want , in 26 x 2.0
![]() 10/29/2020 at 22:36 |
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That looks like a fun tire to try!
![]() 10/30/2020 at 07:16 |
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It’s got the profile that my designer friend likes, and the slicks that you like and it’s got sachet . Pricey, though...
Do you want to her something really dumb? I’ve been corresponding with you now for a couple of years and now, we’re having this conversation about bicycle tyres that’s gotten kind of into the weeds and it’s great, but last night it occurred to me: you have Bicycle as part of your Oppo screen name. I mean, Duh! I am such a clever lad!
It’s 4:15 am and I’m about to head out for my ride. Got awake at 2:45 and arose at 3:15. It just happens that way sometimes. But earlier than 4 am is too early to be out, IMO.
![]() 10/30/2020 at 07:52 |
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:)
I’m glad to be part of your journey. E njoy your ride!